Soup of Tuscan Kale, Beans, and Farro with Citrus Scents

This sturdy soup, thick with chewy grains and fleshy kale, is perfumed with a last-minute burst of orange, lemon, rosemary, garlic, and parsley, which dramatically alters its character. As in many dishes, anchovy plays a silent background role—not a fishy foreground one. Italian farro, an ancient wheat form, cooks swiftly to tender, plump kernels with clinging bits of fine husk. Mild, sweetish, with a pleasing bounce and stickiness, it differs from spelt, its North American counterpart, whi