Creamed Spring Lamb’s Quarters

Thick lamb’s quarters’ leaves turn pillowy soft in cream. Serve as a rich side dish with roast chicken or lamb. Or, for devoted lovers of greens, enrich with more cream and serve as a first course over crisp thin toast. While not glamorous, the plushy mass is as luscious as the finest creamed spinach, with complex mineral undertones.

If tender tips are not in season, the later, leggier plants will taste fine but require more trimming: Increase the quantity of greens and remove all t