For this dish, do not trim the base of the endives as is customary, or the heads may fall apart during cooking. Hot Madras-style curry powder underscores endive’s sweetness; or choose a milder style, as your taste dictates. Roasted peanut oil adds richness and depth. If it is not on hand, substitute 1 tablespoon vegetable oil plus 1 teaspoon Asian (dark) sesame oil. For variety, mint and basil can replace the cilantro.