Fennel and Shrimp Risotto

Subtle flavors reward the patient cook who prepares this special risotto. First broth is simmered with the “discards”—fennel stalks and shrimp shells—then it is slowly incorporated into the rice for a creamy but comparatively low-fat version of a commonly rich dish. While arborio is the most familiar of Italian risotto rices, baldo, carnaroli, and vialone nano are all interesting.

Because risotto demands attention, I serve it as a main course, with other foods that require little or