Chard in Savory Provençal Sauce

Earthy, complex, and balanced, this dish blends multiple seasonings to a mellow, mysterious whole (few recognize the anchovies, which provide a salty edge and meaty richness—but not fishiness). To soften and flavor the stems, they are first braised in flavored bouillon; then the leaves are simply set on top to steam through. If you do not have Ricard, Pernod, or another pastis, substitute ¼ cup dry vermouth and double the amount of fennel seeds. Serve at room temperature as part of a buffet