Scorzonera and salsify subtly suggest artichoke hearts in their complexity—and also in their pallor. The taste is not pale, however, but creamy and nuanced, here faintly underscored by coriander and heightened by lemon. If coriander is not at hand, substitute ¼ teaspoon nutmeg or mace. Do not be tempted to cook the mushrooms with the cream, or the acid will curdle the sauce. Serve over a pilaf of wild and brown rices with almonds, pecans, or pine nuts. Or spoon alongside sautéed veal scallops, baked fish, or roasted pork or poultry.