Roast Pheasant

• 1 pheasant
• softened unsalted butter or olive oil
• salt
• sheet of fresh pork fatback (barde)

For roasting, a pheasant should be young; hens are tenderer than cocks. Indications of youth are smooth, non-scaly feet, a supple, pliable breastbone and pointed, rather than rounded, tips to the long wing feathers. Unless a pheasant has received shot in the abdomen (in which case, it is wiser to pluck it and clean it immediately), the flesh will become more tender and flavorful with three or f