Dirty rice is a classic creole dish that gets its “dirty” color from chicken livers. It’s big-time in Louisiana, but it’s also popular in other areas of the South, where it’s often known as rice dressing. But I didn’t know any of that the first few times I ate dirty rice as a teenager. All I knew was that the steam wafting out of the take-out bags from Popeye’s Fried Chicken smelled like heaven. I wanted that tiny styrofoam container of rice in my hands and opened as soon as possible. This version of dirty rice will treat you more kindly than fast food, but I’ve kept all the really good bits: chicken livers, cajun spices, and the porkaliciousness of a little bit o’ lard.