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15–16
Medium
Published 2001
There are many variations on the Mexican theme of a fried masa base with an array of toppings. One of the classic instances in Veracruz is garnachas. I found a fascinating interpretation at the Hotel Doña Lala in Tlacotalpan. Rosa María Castro Chisanto, the head cook, is known for her version of garnachas consisting of shallow oval shells topped with a rich, complex filling that contains refried beans, cubed potatoes, some cooked meat (crumbled chorizo or other sausage, or shr