My research trips to Veracruz have been made immeasurably more productive by Victor Agustín Benítez, who must be one of the world’s most knowledgeable guides. Victor is a man of great sensibilities — which extend to his cooking. This recipe is my version of his version of a Veracruz soup-stew that is made with either ocean shrimp or the excellent crabs of the region. Some versions, like this, are enriched with little dumplings (bolitas) of masa floating in the