Fish with Fresh Lime and Chile Dressing

Chile limón, the inspired chile-and-lime combination served everywhere around Lake Catemaco, may be the best thing that ever happened to fish — especially the local mojarra, a fish with remarkably sweet and delicate flesh. Probably the most popular approach is panfrying, traditionally over a wood fire, which imparts a tantalizing smokiness to the fish. But people also love the sauce with grilled or broiled fish. If you prefer either of those methods, you may want to omit the butter f