Spareribs with Chile-Spiced Pork Sausage

The town of Otatitlán, on the papaloapan river only a few miles from the Veracruz-Oaxaca state border, is an out-of-the-way site renowned for nothing except the image of the Black Christ in the church of San Andrés Apostol. The striking jet-black figure is visited by pilgrims from all over Mexico. But we were amazed at the wealth of unusual dishes that people there were eager to share with us. Almost as soon as we walked into the Restorán Don Pepe, I found myself deep in conversation with t