Pork with Mashed Pumpkin

Pumpkin-meat combinations are a hallmark of the Afro-Caribbean heritage in Veracruz. This tradition is still being superbly upheld by Santiago Careaga and his wife, Elena Gutiérrez, at Santiago’s Club in Tamiahua, where I tasted this dish with its unexpected North African accents of cumin and coriander seeds. Not surprisingly, their daughter, Dora Elena Careaga Gutiérrez, is a noted expert on African culinary contributions in Veracruz and co-author (with Raquel Torres) of an excellent recip