Refried Beans with Butter

One thing I’ve learned when eating in Veracruz is to expect the unexpected. I never know when I’ll come across some charming original touch that transforms the familiar. It happened to me at La Viuda restaurant in Alvarado when our order arrived with a bowl of refried beans. “What tastes so wonderful in these?” I wondered. Dora Hernández, the manager, supplied the clue to the rich, elusive quality I was picking up on: the beans are refried in a mixture of butter and grated onion. This is on