Chipotle Chile Paste

Salsa made with dried chiles, a powerful hellfire-and-damnation condiment, appears in different versions on many Veracruzan tables. As I point out elsewhere, Veracruzan morita-type chipotles sing with flavor not always matched by the kind available in this country. However, I find that ordinary chipotles can pack a punch of complexity — not just heat — when handled with skill.

The following formula yields a versatile paste that can be employed either as a flavor adjunct to be used i