Our unfailingly knowledgeable guide, Victor Agustín Benítez, headed like a homing pigeon for one of the best ice cream shops (many would say the best) in the port city of Veracruz, the Centro Nevero. It’s just off the bustling promenade on the harbor embankment, and for any lover of frozen desserts, it will be paradise — though I have to say that this is true of ice cream shops throughout the length and breadth of Mexico. My favorite of the more than three dozen flav
