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Granada—ultimate expression of paradise
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By Fiona Dunlop
Published 2023
As I leave Lanjaron, I pass a stooped old man pulling a mule piled high with hay, no doubt the last muleteer—times are changing fast. In half an hour, the road curls northwards to reach Granada, the most emblematically Moorish of all of Andalucia’s cities, with its iconic Alhambra overlooking the vega, the agricultural plain to the west, and the snowy peaks of the Sierra Nevada to the east.
Modern-day Granada may be a thriving university town and a worthy descendant of the scholarly College of Yusuf founded by the Nazrids, but tourism is part of the mix, so you need a good nose (or this book) to track down quality taverns and restaurants. They do exist, as do the descendants of Nazrid craftsmen who made vividly patterned ceramics and introduced marquetry (wood mosaics) and lute making, the latter evolving into today’s much-coveted guitars. All three crafts flourish to this day.
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