The story goes that you should have the water boiling for sweetcorn before you pick it if you want to enjoy it at its sweet, succulent best. Since this is impossible for most of us, it’s lucky that new varieties have been developed where the sugar doesn’t turn to starch so quickly – although you should still eat it as fresh as possible. When buying corn on the cob, look for plump specimens with tightly packed kernels and a soft, fresh husk if this is still attached. Simply cook whole in boiling water, then stand the cob upright and slice off the kernels if the recipe requires it. Baby sweetcorn looks pretty but isn’t overendowed with flavour. Canned and frozen are useful standbys, if a little oversweet.