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Slender young leeks are delicate enough to be used raw. Halve lengthways and slice the tender white and pale green sections into fine half moons. Dress with a little vinegar and salt, or a light vinaigrette. Use in salads, as a garnish for fish, or in sandwiches; the zingy effect is like adding capers or pickles. For a milder flavour, soak them in cold water for an hour or so first.
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