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By Rose Levy Beranbaum

Published 2014

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Unsweetened cocoa powder is pulverized pure chocolate liquor with three-quarters of its cocoa butter removed. Most European cocoa powder is alkalized (Dutch processed), which means that the cocoa powder has been treated with a mild alkali to neutralize the acidity—this mellows its flavor and also makes it more soluble. The term “alkalized” may appear on the container, but a darker colored powder is a good indication that alkalization has taken place. Most alkalized cocoa contains 22 to 25 percent cocoa butter, while nonalkalized cocoa may contain only 10 to 21 percent cocoa butter. I prefer the flavor of alkalized cocoa, although the type of cocoa beans used and the degree of roasting also contribute to the flavor. Darker roasting produces a milder flavored cocoa powder. My favorite is Green & Black’s, from England. It is sometimes available in specialty food stores in the United States. Second to that is Droste. I also like Pernigotti and Van Houten. Both contain 20 to 22 percent cocoa butter and are alkalized.

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