Oils for Flavoring

The Boyajian line of citrus oils, which are extracted from the rind of the fresh fruit, includes orange, tangerine, lemon, and lime. The oils have a perfectly pure flavor without bitterness and are great for adding extra intensity to cakes and frostings. They can also be used in place of zest because their quality is often superior, although they do not contribute the little flecks of bright color that zest does. Fruit oils by weight are equal to about ten times the amount of zest and by volume, sixteen times the volume of loosely packed zest (see Ingredient Equivalences and Substitutions). These oils are available at gourmet stores such as Dean & DeLuca and Williams-Sonoma. Exquisite steam-distilled French fruit essences such as wild strawberry, passion fruit, and apricot are available in tiny bottles from La Cuisine. They are expensive but well worth the price. Perfumer Mandy Aftel also has a line of flavorful essences that includes coffee, bitter orange, blood orange, lemon, and vanilla. A few drops go a long way, so start with just a drop at a time. Store citrus oils in the refrigerator for up to 4 months; the other essences will keep indefinitely at room temperature.