Mutton

If you have British cookbooks from at least 20 years ago, you will find them packed with delicious-sounding mutton recipes — mutton chops baked with layers of potato and garlic; Hungarian sweet pepper stew, using mutton cooked with bacon, potatoes, paprika and caraway seeds; mutton stewed with ginger, soy sauce, sherry and orange peel; braised haunch of mutton; haricot de mouton cooked with beans and plenty of herbs and spices. All marvelous homely dishes for serving to a hungry crowd, but mutton is scarcely part of modem cookery at all.