Duck and Goose

Goose and duck fat are great for roasting potatoes, but there’s more to these birds than their fat. Many breeds of duck are reared for the table, from the wonderful Rouen and Nantes ducks of France to the British Gressingham, Aylesbury and Goosnargh breeds. In the United States, Long Island and Peking ducks are the most sought-after, while Muscovy ducks are gaining in popularity. And of course, in China, Peking duck is famous as the duck used in the eponymous dish.

The term ‘duck’ actually applies to birds that are more than eight weeks old; younger ducks are ‘ducklings’. I think those with the best flavour are about 12 weeks old. By that age they have a deeper, richer flavour, especially when they are slow-roasted or braised.