Water Chestnuts

Called horse’s hoof in Chinese, on account of their mud-pie shape and dark black skin, these are incomparably sweet and juicy—as far away from their canned cousins as a fresh string bean is from one similarly imprisoned. They should be rock-hard when purchased, still wearing the dirt of the bog. Don’t wash them before peeling; that will speed their rotting. To peel, simply use a sharp paring knife and cut away the black skin. Use shortly after peeling to prevent discoloration. Truly rock-hard, unwashed water chestnuts will keep refrigerated in a plastic bag for up to a week. If they’re yellow and sour-smelling once peeled, toss them out. The nearest substitute is jicama, which has a bit of the same crunch, albeit without that special sweetness. Fresh water chestnuts are available nearly year-round in larger Chinese areas, or at Chinese New Year’s time (around early February) in smaller areas. Munch on a raw one to know their glory. I typically serve them raw and cut into cubes with cool Champagne.