Oliva

Olives grown for consumption are generally different varieties from those grown for oil production, with the exception of Taggiasca which is grown in Liguria for both. Edible olives, called ‘da tavola’, are mostly grown in the south and include varieties such as the fairly large green Ascolana in the Marche, the Pugliese Cerignola, Maiatica and Molellara, and in Sicily, the Bella di Spagna, Santa Agostino and Santa Caterina from Spain, all of which are picked when green and unripe but which turn from deep violet to black when ripe.

Famous for its sharpness and very widely used in Italian cooking is the oliva di gaeta, a black olive cured in water for one day and in salt for another day, then soaked in water for 40 days and finally kept in a boiled mild brine. These olives are excellent for antipasto. One of my favourite olives is the small black cured variety which are baked (or dried in the oven) for a more concentrated flavour.

Italian markets sell a huge range of olives, sometimes more than 20 different varieties, whole and stuffed. Most are eaten with bread as part of an antipasto, but some are only suitable for cooking in one of the countless Italian recipes employing olives, especially those from Sicily where the olive is an indispensable ingredient in famous dishes such as Caponata.

Some olives can be stuffed at home, and the range of possible fillings includes mincemeat or tuna fish with capers, parsley, breadcrumbs and beaten egg. The stuffed olives are then dipped in beaten egg and rolled with breadcrumbs before being deep-fried until golden (see the recipe for Olive Ascolane). Recently, recipes such as olive pâté have been developed, and this is used to boost the flavour of sauces and as a topping for bruschetta.