Capers

Capers the pickled buds of a spiny Mediterranean plant, Capparis spinosa, that straggles wild on walls and rocks, but is also cultivated – a laborious trade. The best capers are the tiny nonpareils from the South of France. Their vivid piquancy cuts the fattiness of lamb, enlivens sauces and adds elegance to cheaper kinds of white fish and salt cod. They are often used with black olives, and sometimes with anchovies as well, as in Tapenade and Pan Bagna.