Poudre Fine

From Estienne Servain for Jean Antoine Huguetan, Le thresor de santé (Lyon, 1607): Ginger, one ounce; cinnamon, three and a half ounces; peppercorns, one ounce; long pepper, one ounce; nutmeg, two ounces; whole cloves, one ounce; grains of paradise, galangal, an ounce of each.

Poudre fine is one of several medieval spice mixes often referred to in cookbooks of the time. Cooks tended to be vague on proportions, so this recipe comes from an early-sixteenth-century medical book. Because even a little of the mix goes a long way, after we tested this recipe, ideas for using up the spice mix became commonplace in our small household. I urge you to try it with fish, chicken, veal, and vegetables, as well as for seasoning cookies. Indeed, we’ve become quite addicted! If you prefer to use ready-ground spices, allow 4 tablespoons per ounce (30 g). The mix keeps well in an airtight container. “Powders keep their strength for a month, even forty days,” remarks the author. “They should be kept in leather pouches so they stay fresh.” Here I make half the original quantity. Long pepper is the fruit of a flowering vine in the same genus as black pepper. Both long pepper and grains of paradise can be found in specialty stores and online.