From Nicolas de Bonnefons, Le jardinier françois (Paris, 1651; recipe from 1666 edition): A boisseau [about 12 quarts/liters] of the very best wheat flour is needed, of which you take a quarter to make the Starter, mixing a sponge with Beer Yeast and hot Water; you leave it to rise in a wooden bowl that has been warmed, & should be carefully covered in Winter; while it rises, you mix the remaining three-quarters of the flour with quite hot Water, though you must be able to hold your hand in it, & put in it a quartron [4 ounces or 110 g] of Salt, a pound of fresh Butter, & a Fresh cheese; two hours later you refresh the Levain with this second Dough as described in the recipe for Bread [below]; then put it again to rest in the bowl, & when risen, you mix it all, & knead it well, that is you work it on the Table, or in the bread Trough with the palm of your Hand, flattening it and then folding the sides to the center; if you have a Broyoire [club for pounding] use it after having worked the dough thoroughly, then you shape it on the Peel, that you will use for transferring it to the oven, & let it rise well; when ready, you glaze it, & put it in the oven, closing it tightly as for Bread.
