Baked Eggs

This is one of the neglected secrets of getting the most out of an egg. Select ramekins with a capacity of 4 to 6 ounces (½ to ¾ cup). Generously butter the ramekins. Baked eggs are good without any filling or sauce, but you can cover the bottom of each ramekin with a thin layer of creamed spinach, some cooked-down tomato concassée, diced leftover shrimp or other shellfish or seafood, a piece of smoked salmon, a few cubes of rendered bacon—whatever appeals—and then crack the egg into the ramekin. Add a tablespoon or two of heavy cream to each egg, and season with salt and pepper. Set the ramekins in a baking dish and pour in enough hot water to come one-third up the sides of the ramekins. Bake in a 375°F. oven for about 15 minutes, or until the egg white is set. The cream allows the egg white to set without getting hard and gives it a custardlike consistency.