Baking in a Paper Bag

The idea of sealing fish in parchment paper for baking (en papillote) has been around for years but is oddly neglected, especially considering how versatile it is and how dramatic it is at the table. It also has the advantage of being something you assemble in advance and bake just before serving.

The basic method is to place an individual serving of firm-fleshed fish, such as tuna or salmon, on a sheet of parchment paper, sprinkle some aromatic ingredients, such as chopped shallots, ginger, garlic, herbs, mushrooms (cultivated or wild), or truffles or chopped or julienned vegetables (precooked slightly if necessary), on top, and then drizzle over a little wine, vegetable broth, or shellfish broth. The paper is folded over and sealed, and then the “bag" is baked just before serving. The effect is essentially the same as braising, except that the liquid released by the fish is not fashioned into a sauce at the last minute. Always remove the skin from fish that will be cooked en papillote, as it will end up rubbery and unattractive.