Basil

Is any herb more versatile or more seductive? Nowadays, basil is abundant in the summer, from our gardens and from local markets. In fact, it is so abundant that we are even a little stuck with it and feel guilty if we don’t use it. Fortunately, any excess can be pureed with olive oil in a food processor (a pesto minus the garlic, the pine nuts, and the hand working of the authentic version), frozen, and then whisked into sauces or soups (especially vegetable and seafood soups) to provide a burst of summer in the cool months. When chopped with butter, it becomes a bit French and a perfect candidate to finish a subtle sauce or soup. It is marvelous with garlic, tomatoes, and saffron, and a swirl of the pestolike puree, next to a dollop of aioli and a dribble of saffron with its soaking liquid, is unforgettable atop a fish soup or the French version of minestrone known as pistou. You can also whisk it into a fresh tomato soup or tomato sauce at the last minute. In fact, basil should always be used at the last minute—its aroma and flavor are fleeting—rather than simmered, as you would thyme.