Published 2004
Many middle- and upper-middle-class Americans wanted to emulate the wealthy’s “genteel” meals; the conundrum was how to dine elegantly when one was neither to the manner born nor possessed of a phalanx of European-trained servants. Imagine a young housewife’s jitters in navigating the shoals of dinner à la française upon reading in Recollections of a Housekeeper (1834) by Clarissa Packard that “a lady may as excusably stand on her own head at her table, as have her turkey or goose in an unauthorized posture.”
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