Twentieth and Early Twenty-First Centuries: Two World Wars and a Depression: Food, Festivals, and Regional Identity

New England food traditions are kept alive by self-conscious means. Festivals and food tourism have proved popular vehicles for both curious visitors from outside the region and long-time New Englanders seeking reaffirmation or re-acquaintance with their food traditions. Seasonal observances begin with maple syrup making in the spring; continue through strawberry and blueberry festivals in early and midsummer and lobster festivals in late summer; and end with apple and pumpkin celebrations in the fall. Religious, grange, and civic organizations hold baked bean and ham suppers and, along the coast, chowder suppers. Vacationers and locals both hold clambakes or lobster bakes, a leisure-time activity that dates to the mid-nineteenth century and recalls an even earlier supposed connection to the original settlers and Native Americans. In northern New England, bean-hole bean suppers recall the lumber industry of the region. Ethnic groups hold festivals at which food is sold. Some festivals are held merely to celebrate the existence of the group; others are held in connection with older observances, such as Blessings of the Fleet (Italian) and old religious holidays. New England tourism fosters regional specialties, such as Vermont cheese and maple sugar candy and Maine lobster. Locally landed seafood offered in restaurants, clam shacks, and lobster pounds similarly hark back to the New England fishing history.