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Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America

By Andrew F. Smith

Published 2004

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Most of America’s early settlers brought with them whatever they needed to reestablish their gardens on the new continent. And they always brought onions (Allium cepa). Onions could make people weep, but they made any dish taste better. The bulbs were resistant to decay and could last all winter in the root cellar.

Onions are very climate and soil sensitive, so European onions had to be adapted selectively to local growing conditions. Kitchen gardens of the eighteenth century tended to rely on imported onions for seed stock because seeds saved from domestically grown onions often deteriorated. After the Revolutionary War growers started adapting varieties to different American climates. Many of the onion varieties in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries were derived from the imported English globe onion and were suited for the cooler New England and Mid-Atlantic climates. Other varieties, successful in southern conditions, were developed from Spanish, Portuguese, and Italian stock. A few of these heirlooms are still grown.

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