Oyster Bars

The shucking and serving of oysters has been a downstairs-upstairs phenomenon in the history of American restaurants. As early as 1763 a cellar on Broad Street in New York City featured oysters on the half shell, as did a handful of other basement saloons, which were occasionally called parlors or bars. As time passed and the number of these establishments grew, they were recognized by certain distinctive features. A balloon of red muslin, which could be illuminated at night by a candle within, beckoned the oyster aficionado down a short flight of steps. In the nineteenth century these 25- by 100-foot cellars were ornately furnished with mirrors, gilded paintings, gaslights or chandeliers, carpeting in the center aisle, and a handsome bar at one end of the room. Oysters became the incentive for consuming alcoholic beverages, and the atmosphere of these clubby, all-male cellars led to the invitation “Let us royster with the oyster—in the shorter days and moister” (Detroit Free Press, October 12, 1889). One of the most prestigious of these oyster cellars was Downings at 5 Broad Street in New York. Because of its proximity to the U.S. Customs House, the Merchant’s Exchange, banks, and stores, it also became a meeting place of politicians and office-seekers. By 1874 over 850 oyster establishments existed in New York City alone. Not limited to this major commercial seaport, but also located in other cities along the Atlantic coast and as far west as the railroads extended, oyster cellars, saloons, and bars displaced coffeehouses as meeting places.