Pigs as Food

From the colonial era until the mid-twentieth century many farm families who raised hogs did their own slaughtering. Either free-ranging and lured to farms with corn, or fed on corn and skim milk during the whole year and kept in pens, fat hogs were ready for slaughter in the late autumn or winter. In Appalachia, where Hampshires were common, 250 pounds was considered the best weight for meat and lard. In other regions, Poland Chinas and Durocs were preferred, and the same weight was considered optimum. Hog-killing time was one of the year’s special events. Families and neighbors gathered to share in the festivities. The selected animal was brought to the site, shot between the eyes, then quickly turned over so that a knife could be inserted into its heart. Draining blood was important in obtaining good meat. After scalding in large kettles the hog was debristled and cut up. Families delighted in gorging on various parts of the pig, such as roasted pancreas (called “melt”), brains, and other parts. Various cuts, such as hams, were set aside for curing and smoking. Some of the meat was ground and stuffed into cloth sausage bags or made into patties, fried, set into containers, and covered with lard for use during the rest of the year. Making lard was especially important because it was the culinary fat of choice in rural America well into the twentieth century.