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Methods of Making Preserves

Appears in
Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America

By Andrew F. Smith

Published 2004

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Historically, the standard proportions for preserves were equal weights of fruit and sugar, which were cooked in a shallow brass, bell metal, or enameled iron pan (not uncoated iron, as it darkens the fruit). In some cases the prepared fruit and sugar were allowed to sit overnight before cooking, a process that drew the liquid and maintained a firmer texture. Thickening was achieved by lengthy cooking, often two hours or more. The completed preserve was put up in jelly glasses or stone pots (stoneware), sealed with brandy papers and perhaps melted tallow, and covered with a tied-on paper or cloth. Syrups followed the same procedure, but the fruit was strained and then corked in a bottle.

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