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Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America

By Andrew F. Smith

Published 2004

  • About
Swinging doors, player pianos, gunfights, and the Wild West are some of the images that the word “saloon” conjures up. Others think of skid row, red-light districts, drunkenness, and wasted lives when they hear the word. At one time the word embraced all of these ideas and many more. Long before the saloon became associated with debauchery and the Wild West, saloons were watering holes for both the privileged and the poor.

Saloons in America evolved from the public taverns and ordinaries of the eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries. During the colonial period, taverns generally served a broad cross-section of society. It was during the federalist period that these public drinking spaces started to serve a more restricted clientele. The wealthiest found haven in private clubs, and merchants and businessmen retreated to coffeehouses and restaurants. The traveler frequented hotel bars, which had the attributes of both the club and saloon. At first, the saloon (from the French salon) catered to wealthy native-born Americans. These saloons, decorated with handsome furniture, woodwork, large mirrors, and carpets, created an ambience of luxury and were associated with the poshest hotels (Boston’s Parker House and the Palmer House in Chicago) and restaurants (Delmonico’s in New York) in America. It was in the environment of this kind of saloon that the cocktail, a uniquely American invention, had its origins.

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