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Appears in
Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America

By Andrew F. Smith

Published 2004

  • About

In The Joy of Cooking, the editor Irma S. Rombauer sniffs, “We can only echo Clifton Fadiman when he declares that processed cheese represents the triumph of technology over conscience.”

The chemist Elmer E. Eldredge, employed by Phenix Cheese Company in Lowville, New York, invented Phenett in 1915—a processed cheese containing whey protein, cheese (American, swiss, or camembert), and sodium citrate, an antioxidant. Meanwhile, scientists for J. L. Kraft Brothers were formulating NuKraft, a similar product. Kraft patented its tinned cheese in 1916, and it was included in the rations of soldiers going overseas during World War I. Phenix and Kraft agreed to share patent rights to their processed cheeses, and in 1928 Velveeta was born. Kraft’s brand name reflects the velvety texture of the product when melted.

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