cheeks of animals, for example of the pig, because they usually yield rich, savoury juices, are a good choice to include in stews, pies, and sausages. However, because cheek muscles are exercised constantly, the meat tends to be tough and may need long cooking. cod cheeks, on the other hand, are tender morsels, perhaps because cod are not eating all the time and do not exercise their cheeks in making noises.
See also bath chap; pancetta (for guanciale).
© the Estate of Alan Davidson 1999, 2006, 2014 © in the Editor’s contribution to the second and third editions, Oxford University Press 2006, 2014.