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Oxford Companion to Food

By Alan Davidson

Published 2014

  • About

kiwi the national emblem of New Zealand, any one of several flightless and tail-less birds, about the size of domestic fowl, of the genus Apteryx.

For a long time now there has been no question of eating any of these rare creatures. However, an account by Charles Edward Douglas (a pioneer New Zealand explorer who wrote about birds among other things) survives (with his spelling) from the very end of the 19th century of its edibility:

As for eating a kiwi. Just before they commence breeding they are very fat and good eating. Still I must confess it requires some considerable practice to get the acquired taste. They have an earthy flavour, which to many would be disagreeable. The best definition I ever heard about roast or boiled kiwi, was a man, remarking it tasted as he should imagine a piece of pork boiled in an old coffin would be like. The egg has slightly the same flavour, but is not to be dispised. One egg makes an excellent fritter, covering an ordinary frying pan.

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