To be at its best, a fresh peach has to ripen on the tree. Those which are exported over long distances are often picked long before they are ripe and make poor eating, may indeed be rubbery and tasteless or (worse still) have lost all their juiciness and become ‘mealy’ or ‘floury’ (usually because they have been refrigerated).
Fresh peaches are so good that it seems a shame to cook them, but they are good if poached in wine or made into pies. The most famous peach dessert, peach Melba, was created by escoffier in 1893 to honour Dame Nellie Melba. It is less well known that when Mme Récamier, the famous beauty of the early 19th century, was ill, refusing all food and at death’s door, she was tempted to eat and eventually recover by a dish of peaches in syrup and cream.