Appears in
Oxford Companion to Food

By Alan Davidson

Published 2014

  • About

shiso the Japanese name for a herb, Perilla frutescens (formerly nankinensis), whose cultivation and use is most prominent in Japan although also observable in China, Burma, the foothills of the Himalayas, and more recently in California too. ‘Perilla’ is sometimes used as an English name.

The half-dozen or so cultivars of this herb include both green-leaved and red- or purple-leaved forms. The former are used by the Japanese for garnishing and in salads. The cultivar Red, sometimes called beefsteak plant from the colour of the leaves, is best known as the colouring agent for their pickled ‘plums’ (see umeboshi), ginger, etc., and as a beautiful wrapping for certain items of confectionery. The cultivar Curled is of an even darker purple colour and has an aroma described as ‘peppermint-like’; other cultivars have aromas more like lemon or cinnamon or cumin.