Fished on the east and west coasts of Australia, swordfish weigh in at between 30 and 120kg. Unlike tuna, this oily fish can be cooked almost through without becoming dry, but I still prefer it slightly pink. The flavour has a meaty richness but is not overpowering and is well-matched by tomatoes, garlic and strong herbs such as basil and thyme. I have even lightly encrusted swordfish steaks with cracked white peppercorns and seared them, in the manner of pepper steak. I then added a splash of brandy, ignited it and added a little crème fraîche to make a sauce. The result was excellent.