The mid-1980s saw the introduction of the first farmed salmon from the pure waters of Tasmania. My restaurant in those days was Claude’s and we were fortunate to be offered this fabulous fish right from the start of supply. There was excitement throughout the industry, with colleagues comparing recipes for a fish that had hitherto only been available as a frozen import. Salmon appeared on menus in every guise - poached, grilled, pan-fried and baked in various robes, from vegetable leaves to pastry. Japanese chefs produced a delicious new sashimi to show off the salmon’s exquisite colour and texture.