The El-Samouni name is a tragically famous one in Gaza: In one of the most internationally recognized and widely criticized incidents of the war on Gaza in 2008–2009, the entire extended El-Samouni family was ordered into one house, which was then demolished. Forty-nine members of the family—mostly women and children— were killed.
Lulu wears her surname like an onerous medal; in the Zeitoun Cooperative’s kitchen, eyes are lowered in a meaningful pause after she is introduced. But the respect she commands is not only because of her family’s tragedy. She has a gravity of her own.