Demi-Sel

Parisian charcutiers sell a variety of pork products, called demi-sel (“half-salt”), that have been cured in salt or brine. As is true for so many preserved things, the curing process intensifies flavors, adds complexity, and tenderizes. Since it’s hard to find demi-sel in the United States, I make my own by rubbing pork loin, pork shoulder, pork butt (which is a part of the shoulder), or the sirloin end of a fresh ham with salt and turning it in the salt several times a day for 3 to 6 days depending on its size—3 days for a 5-pound [2.3-kg] piece and 6 days for 10-pound [4.5-kg] piece. Traditional French recipes call for sel rose (“pink salt”), which contains a small amount of saltpeter. The saltpeter, which is potassium nitrate, contains traces of potassium nitrite, which helps the meat retain its natural pink color instead of turning a sullen gray. Paradoxically, once the meat is cured, it has to be soaked before it is cooked to eliminate excess salt.