Walnuts

Walnuts, the second-ranking nut crop, are grown in California, and they are also grown and appreciated all over the world. Because of their high fat content—they contain 64 percent fat—they are also quite prone to rancidity and should be stored frozen. The very best walnuts I’ve ever tasted are from the Perigord region of France, where, logically the best walnut oil is produced. I once spent a stormy day in the beautiful home of Josette and Pierre Chouard, talking about life while shelling walnuts for a tart. It took hours with an antique nutcracker. Those walnuts were the best I ever tasted, and the process of preparing them induced such a feeling of supreme well-being as I will never forget. We ate the huge tart for dessert for the next three nights, and we were extraordinarily happy. Roasting walnuts improves their flavor and has the added advantage of being able to remove the bitter skins easily—200 grams nuts have 9 grams skins (4.5 percent).