Garlic

The best is imported from Spain, Italy and France. Some British. The firmer and fresher the better. Look especially, at the height of the autumn and winter import seasons, for large heads of fat cloves encased in purply pink skin. Fresh, mild, green garlic, popular around the Mediterranean – especially in Spain – is not available here through the retail trade.

Garlic salt and granules always have an unpleasant metallic edge. The pastes sold in tubes are hardly better. Some of the jars of paste mixed with olive oil are less offensive. Whole cloves preserved in oil or vinegar can be fine.