Kanpyo

These dried gourd ribbons have an unusual role in Japanese cooking; they are used to tie foods together and look more like parcel string than food. The flesh of the calabah gourd, a member of the marrow family, is thinly shaved, then dried to a long ribbon, about 2cm/¾in wide, and whitened by smoking in sulphur. As well as being tied around food, kanpyo is simmered with vegetables and meat. Before use it needs to be softened. Rub with salt and wash vigorously to break down the fibres and increase absorbency. It can then be boiled in water until soft and is normally cooked in a shoyu-based sauce, and used for sushi. Packets of 30-50g/1½-2 oz are available from Asian stores.